Traversing the heart of South Africa’s Limpopo and Mpumalanga provinces, where history and nature entwine like the tracks of a long-forgotten railway, lies a story that beckons the curious.
It’s a tale that spans decades, weaving through the majestic landscapes of the Kruger National Park, over the Sabie River Bridge, and into the charming precincts of Skukuza’s “Selati Line” Train Station.
This narrative, rich with inquisition, beauty, and a dash of scandal, is not just a journey through time and space—it’s an invitation to rediscover the soul of one of Africa’s most cherished sanctuaries, through what was its iconic “Round in Nine” train tour.
So, make sure your train tickets are punched as you join me while we unpack all the intrigue from our initial blog “Whispers on the Track”.
THE SCANDAL OF THE LINE: A HISTORICAL PRELUDE
The construction of the Selati railway from Delagoa Bay to the Witwatersrand goldfields in the late 19th century wasn’t just an engineering feat; it was a chapter steeped in the geopolitical and economic tumult of the era.
Set against the Scramble for Africa, where European powers, notably Britain and Portugal, along with the Boer-led South African Republic, clashed over territorial dominance, this project highlighted the strategic battles for control over Southern Africa’s most lucrative gold-filled territories.
The endeavour was marred by engineering challenges, including navigating malaria-infested swamps and steep terrains, requiring innovative solutions like prefabricated steel bridges and the daunting task of managing a workforce in harsh conditions.
Amidst the backdrop of ambition and adversity, the clamour for wealth and progress birthed a scandal which simmered beneath the surface. The construction of the railway was mired in controversy, from the exorbitant costs to the alleged underhand dealings that favoured certain contractors over others.
The “scandal of the line” wasn’t just about the misuse of funds or the ethical lapses in judgment; it reflected the tumultuous times that characterised the gold rush and the lengths to which men would go to secure their fortune, contentiously implicating prominent protagonists like Sir Percy Fitzpatrick (author of Jock of the Bushveld) and damning others such as the Oppenheim Brothers, Eugene and Robert – who clinched the deal to construct the railway line through bribery and corruption. Their financial mismanagement came to light in 1895, revealing over a million pounds siphoned off by corrupt officials and businessmen.
Cecil John Rhodes, embodying British ambition, played a pivotal role, leveraging the railway for broader colonial strategies, including his vision for a Cape to Cairo Railway. The fallout from these controversies not only deepened the rifts between the British and the Boers, culminating in the Anglo-Boer War, but also underscored the railway’s significance in Johannesburg’s development and the broader narrative of industrial progress amidst colonial exploitation.
ROUND IN NINE: THE TRAIN TOUR EXPERIENCE
From these contentious beginnings, the railway would find a new purpose, one that transcended its original intent.
In a significant turn of events in 1923, the South African Railways took the helm and launched the “Round in Nine” train tour.
The tour earned its name from the promise that travellers could experience a comprehensive round trip of the region in just nine days. Starting from Pretoria, the journey was meticulously planned to cover significant attractions and scenic routes, providing passengers with a blend of adventure, wildlife viewing, and cultural experiences. One of the key highlights of the “Round in Nine” tour was its stopover at Sabie Bridge, which is today known as Skukuza, the largest rest camp and administrative headquarters of the Kruger National Park (which was formed in 1926)
Train operations through the park continued until 1973, after which the tracks were dismantled, except for the bridge at Skukuza, which remains a historical landmark.
At the heart of Skukuza rests the iconic South African Railway Class 24 steam locomotive, number 3638, stranded with a single carriage that boasts a remarkable history. Initially serving as a suburban coach from 1942, it transformed into a funeral coach in 1950, notably transporting the remains of General J.C. Smuts from Irene near Pretoria to Johannesburg for his cremation. In 1967, it was refurbished and served as the State Funeral Coach, during which it carried the remains of the Hon. J.G. Strydom.
Later donated to the National Parks Board (SANParks), it found a new purpose as a restaurant from 1984 to 2014, despite the loss of its companion kitchen and dining carriage to a fire in 1996. After years of being inaccessible, this iconic train and the station have been revitalized as part of the Kruger Station, a vibrant lifestyle hub that celebrates the park’s rich heritage.
Today both Rovos Rail and The Blue Train, South Africa’s most luxurious train services, offer unparalleled experiences that blend the grandeur of vintage train travel with modern luxury. With both services engaging the Kruger National Park they combine the romance of rail with the adventure of an African safari, setting it high on the bucket list stakes.
SABIE BRIDGE, SKUKUZA: A LINK TO THE WORLD
Originally constructed to facilitate the booming gold mining industry and later tourism, this bridge marks the transition from exploitation to conservation. Part of the Selati Railway Line, its creation in the early 20th century played a crucial role in making the vast wilderness accessible, paving the way for what is now one of Africa’s leading wildlife sanctuaries.
Despite the cessation of rail services, the Sabie Bridge has been preserved as a cultural heritage site, offering visitors a glimpse into the human history that has shaped the park. Its design, typical of the era, features robust materials like steel and concrete, built to endure the heavy burdens of freight and the passage of time.
Today, it serves not only as a historical artifact but also as an educational resource, symbolising the early engineering feats and the evolving relationship between humans and the natural world.
The preservation of the Sabie Bridge within the Kruger National Park underscores a commitment to maintaining cultural heritage alongside natural conservation. For visitors to Skukuza, it offers a unique intersection of history and nature, providing a tangible link to the past and a reminder of the journey from exploitation to protection and preservation of South Africa’s natural treasures.
KRUGER STATION RESTAURANT: A CULINARY JOURNEY
No journey through Kruger would be complete without indulging in the flavours of the region, and the Kruger Station Restaurant on the Selati line offers just that.
This eatery provides a dining experience like no other, captivating visitors with its unique fusion of historical charm and gastronomic delight. With seating arranged on a vintage train platform and the adjacent historic steam engine, the atmosphere transports diners back in time. The eatery serves a variety of dishes throughout the day in this evocative setting, blending culinary pleasure with a dash of the past.
As you savour high-quality meals, surrounded by the natural beauty of one of Africa’s most famed wildlife sanctuaries, the Kruger Station stands as a testament to the park’s rich heritage.
A JOURNEY THROUGH TIME AND NATURE:
The Selati railway with all its historical drama, cutting through some of the most breathtaking landscapes, boasting architectural marvels and bridging together both culture and cuisine, is more than just a tourist attraction. It’s a tribute to the enduring spirit of Africa, its people, and the natural wonders that make our home a place of awe and inspiration.
From the scandalous origins of the railway to the serene beauty of the Sabie Bridge and the culinary delights of the Selati Station Restaurant, this journey is a reminder of the inter connectedness of history, nature, and humanity that shape our world.
So, to the wanderers, the history buffs, the nature enthusiasts, and the culinary connoisseurs, the railway, and its historical affiliations both past and present beckon you to experience Hoedspruit and her surrounds.